Eat (the most amazing meal of your life with a Greek salad & red wine), Sleep (on a very hard bed with a blanket that smells kind of like wet dog), Climb (the most amazing routes of your life), Repeat
The sounds and smells of Kalymnos are so much of the experience and while I can bring you the sights (at least an attempt via photo), I can only describe what it FEELS like to be here. The first night here we had the windows open and had a salty cool breeze that blew in throughout the night. On weekend nights, the Greek music (always with at least a violin and some percussion and tinging bells) comes in with the sea breeze and goes until about 2am- while you are sleeping, you are very aware of it, but it is not at all disturbing. The rooster down the street is very honorable and only starts crowing at exactly 6am every morning. There are a lot of sheep and goats on the island and you can hear their bells chiming around- especially up at the cliffs when the wind dies down. At the top of the very long routes, all you can hear is the wind and it is a very peaceful place to be. The village of Massouri smells mostly like the sea, but also has the occasional soapy water & goat smell mixed in.
It is interesting to see how the island has found a niche with climbing. From what I understand, the island had only a slim to moderate amount of tourism as there are many Greek islands that are more known to Europeans on holiday. Climbing has brought the island a longer business season and supports the local restaurants & studios without any change in lifestyle. Climbers and islanders lifestyle meld together nicely: as groups of people we love the outdoors and like to take time to savor life.
Today, with James & Laurel in tow, we returned to the Grande Grotta with more steep tufa action to be had. I warmed up and then strapped on 22 draws, and started up Priapos for the onsight attempt. It went . . .not so great- I got lost in a couple of the sections, then really pumped, then really scared. Even though the climbing is ridiculously steep, it is hard to convince yourself that you will not impale your body on the tufas below you. Belayers are required to dish out a lot of extra slack so that the falls will be very long, but safe from the jagged cliff. I did the route fairly easily, though, second go! Definitely the longest route I have ever done and it felt like a journey. Some Slovenians were excited to try the route and offered to clean my gear. . .sweet, right? Well, not so sweet after >1h and they still hadn’t made it to the top and then were having a very difficult time getting the draws down. So I ended up having to do it a third time. I guess I’m just getting into Kalymnian shape, but I’m feeling pretty thrashed and will probably take a rest day tomorrow. The climbing is so three dimensional and there are instances when you are full on mantling mid-route so I have scrapes and cuts all over my arms, legs, torso. Don’t worry, mom- I put some sporin on them (although I should have probably opted for windex. . .I mean I AM in Greece after all). . . .
I'm the little black dot in the upper right- these routes are crazy long!
Laurel climbing on DNA (7a+)
James learning limestone, thankful for his sticky rubber!
Kendo tickling tufas
Being lowered from the send of Priapos: it was a long way up there!
Silouette shot from the rest mid-route on Priapos
Sweet Kenneth was on belay for a very long time. . .once again I'm the little black dot.
Kate-
ReplyDeleteI'm so glad you are having a great time! You must eat at Panos. It's on the ocean side of the main road and is excellent. Tell them the American's from the summer sent you! I can't imagine they will ever forget us after the scene Jason Grubb made!
Great to read your blog. makes me long to be back on Kalymnos living the ultimate life!
Enjoy,
Jen
Catching up on your trip! It looks like it's been amazing so far, with kitten rescue thrown in.
ReplyDeleteKeep it up.